Frequently Asked Questions
- What does grooming include?
- How much will it cost?
- What do you charge extra for?
- Do you offer day care?
- Can I watch you groom my dog?
- Should I shave my dog for the summer?
- What is deshedding?
- My dog got sprayed by a skunk! What do I do?
- Will you wash my skunky dog?
- Can you give my dog a flea bath?
- How often should my dog be groomed?
- What is the best age to start?
- Policy regarding refusal of services.
What does grooming include?
Your dog's beauty treatment begins with a hydromassage bath, which deep cleans while offering a soothing massage action. A variety of environmentally friendly shampoos and conditioners are available to match to your dog's particular skin & coat type. After the bath, your pet will be blow dried by hand. Ears will be cleaned, nails trimmed, "sanitary trim" if needed, paws neatened, and hair thoroughly brushed & combed. Styling is done to breed standard or your custom needs.
The amount of time this all takes will of course vary, but on average most pets are done in less than two hours. Each client is given a private appointment, so pets spend less time away from home.
How much will it cost?
This varies widely according to breed, size, coat condition, style, and behavior. Therefore we are unable to give definite quotes until working with the dog. You may however call or email Shampoodles for an estimate.
Note that prices may fluctuate slightly with each visit according to time spent due to coat condition or special services performed. Make sure you know "today's" price before paying!
Multi-pet discounts are not available, as each dog requires the same amount of work as if they were an only child. Owners should only keep as many pets as they can reasonably afford to care for.
What do you charge extra for?
Techniques that require added effort or time, beyond standard grooming, such as special handling or coats in poor condition require a higher fee. This includes dematting, or shaving of severely matted coats, and medicated skin treatment baths. Parasite removal or extreme deodorizing warrant an additional charge. (See details below.) Specialty services such as deshedding, handstripping, or show grooming are offered at an hourly rate. For owners who want extra flair, creative coloring can be done and charged for added time and products. Dye jobs usually must be scheduled ahead of time.
Do you offer day care?
At Shampoodles, we generally serve one client at a time, so each dog can receive individual attention. This also allows for shorter groom times, so your pet doesn't needlessly spend an entire day away from their family. We've found this schedule to be less stressful than traditional grooming shops. If you work during the week, we may be able to accommodate you after hours.
We are not equipped to offer quality day care services here. Please pick your pet up at the given time.
Can I watch you groom my dog?
Most salons don't allow owners to stay, as it is a distraction to both dog and stylist, as well as a potential liability. Dogs usually behave much better when their owners are not present. However, at Shampoodles we understand some owners' desire to remain with their pet, and so in some cases will allow them to stay during grooming if requested, or wait outside/in the car until finished. Sometimes it's simply a matter of time - the dog is finished so quickly it isn't worth driving home just to turn back around for pick up time. In a few instances, difficult behavior or physical limitations warrants the owner's assistance. Of course most dogs are just fine being dropped off for their beauty treatment while their owner runs errands!
Note: If the dog becomes too distracted by the owner's presence, then they may be asked to wait out of sight during grooming, for the safety and sanity of all involved.
Should I shave my dog for the summer?
Not necessarily. There are some concerns with the practice of clipping double coated breeds, along with the danger of sunburn when shaving light-colored or thin-coated dogs too closely. Sunburn is easily avoided by leaving hair at a reasonably protective length and/or using sunblock made for pets or children. As for the clipping of undercoated dogs, the strong possibility of severe coat damage remains. "Northern" breeds are particularly susceptible. (Low-shedding "hair" breeds are rarely affected, so trim freely.) The shorter the clip, the greater the possibility of the coat not growing back properly, or in some cases, at all. The reasons are unknown, though theories abound, but the fact is that it can happen. Some dogs never have this problem, while others still aren't affected until after years of clipping. Of course, it is purely an aesthetic condition, so if after weighing the drawbacks you still prefer your pet in a shorter clip, then by all means go for it. The truth is that many heavily coated dogs are more comfortable in the summer without their excess of fur. So while we generally recommend the more natural alternative of proper coat maintenance plus deshedding, and possibly light trimming, the question to shave or not is entirely an individual choice. We would be happy to consult on your particular needs and breed of dog to help you decide.
What is deshedding?
Your groomer will use a variety of special tools and methods to remove the bulk of your dog's undercoat. This can dramatically reduce shedding, as well as improve skin & coat health. The technique may also be called carding, or "furminating" when using the Furminator tool. Of course nothing can completely stop the natural shedding cycle, and the process should be repeated on a regular schedule to keep loose hair to a minimum.
My dog got sprayed by a skunk! What do I do?
There are several "home remedies" readily available. Our first recommendation is usually to apply a 50/50 solution of vinegar (white or cider) and water to the dry coat. No need to rinse. Most of us have some vinegar in our pantry so it's one of the most convenient remedies, plus it actually has many skin benefiting properties unlike most other products. Your dog might smell a bit like a salad after, but it's safe, easy, and does a decent job of reducing skunk odor. Common sense dictates avoiding eye contact.
An effective, scientifically tested recipe is: 1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup baking soda, 1 tsp liquid dish soap (Dawn, Ivory, etc.) - mix in an open container (e.g. a bucket) and use immediately. Use a sponge to apply to face and avoid eye contact. Let stand at least 10 minutes before rinsing. Minor bleaching may occur.
There are also many commercially available products (with varying effectiveness) for getting out the smell. Keeping some on hand may be a good idea if you have a chronic skunk problem.
Regardless of what remedy you use, the most important thing is applying to a dry coat, and working it thoroughly to the skin. Wetting the coat first seals the cuticle, meaning that stench is now trapped inside the hair, and deodorizing products will be less effective.
Since dogs investigate with their nose, the face is most often hit hardest with skunk spray. Check eyes for redness, and rinse with pure saline solution (not the stuff for contacts - buy plain eye wash).
No remedy will remove 100% of the odor. You'll often find a lingering smell when the pet gets wet, even weeks later. Repeated treatments if necessary and good grooming will minimize this.
Also, don't forget to wash the collar! (Along with anything else the dog touched after being sprayed.)
Prevention is of course the best remedy! If you know the skunks are out, check your yard before letting your pets out. Keep dogs on leash and under control esp. at night, dawn and dusk. Try putting a bell on his/her collar to scare off wild animals. Keep an eye on your dog! Don't leave pet food or loose trash outside, as this calls the stinky critters right to your door!
Will you wash my skunky dog?
We'd rather not! Taking in a skunked dog - even one sprayed a week ago - contaminates the entire salon with the foul smell for days, and it seeps into our home. This is neither healthy nor pleasant for my family or my clients. If presented with this task, you understand the need to charge a deodorizing fee to cover products, additional time bathing, and extra cleaning afterwards.
Remember also that we're not the only ones that will suffer from skunk odor contamination... Your car will likely reek of it from the ride over! The "ideal" approach is to follow one of the home remedies listed above, then bring your dog in for a more thorough bath to zap away the rest of the odor. Yes, a deodorizing fee still applies.
Can you give my dog a flea bath?
Fleas can be sneaky, so I always keep an effective natural shampoo and area spray on hand for unforeseen circumstances. However, it has never been our policy to accept dogs infested with fleas. Treatment for any number fleas will result in an immediate upcharge. Similar to the issues with skunk odor (but more dangerous) stray fleas can get into our house, on my own dog (who is highly allergic!) or other clients. This is not acceptable. If you call for a flea bath - or show up with the buggers - you may be turned away. We recommend that you first get the parasites under control with a treatment from your vet (note: name brand products are far safer than generics) and don't forget to treat your house! Fleas actually spend the majority of their lives off your pet's body. This means they are residing in your home and possibly yard. Clean like a maniac, I say. Wash everything you can in hot water, vacuum daily, pay attention to baseboard cracks, spaces under furniture, the furniture itself, etc. Use a non-toxic insecticidal spray or powder if necessary. Look into natural remedies such as diatomaceous earth. Carpeting is the enemy - treat those areas seriously, or better yet, rip it out if you can. Pay attention to your pet's environment - if you are using preventative treatments and he is still getting fleas, they are coming from somewhere!
On a related subject, ticks are a normal problem in our area. Any that are found on your dog will be removed; this service is complimentary in normal cases. If an excessive number are found, then a small fee may be added for extra time spent.
How often should my dog be groomed?
This will vary according to breed and amount of proper brushing given between grooms. Six weeks is usually a pretty good schedule for any dog. Of course, some dogs can go longer, while others need more frequent attention. We do feel that all dogs should be bathed at least seasonally - just think how much environmental toxins (along with dirt, dander, and who knows what else) the hair accumulates in three months! Now obviously, if you have a breed that requires styling, this is far too long to wait, and even the majority of "wash & wear" dogs need a bath long before then. But it is good to set minimums, as unfortunately many people still do the once a year thing, which is rarely adequate for any breed. If you have a longhaired dog in a full style, 4 - 5 weeks is often the best interval for professional grooming, while 6 - 8 weeks is usually sufficient for short clips or deshedding treatments. In some cases, maintenance baths approximately every 10 days may be recommended for certain skin conditions, or every 2 - 3 weeks for show dogs, or full coated breeds given minimal at-home brushing.
Nail care is an often overlooked service. Very few dogs wear their nails down naturally to an ideal length. Overgrown nails can contribute to discomfort, joint problems, and even infections. A rule of thumb is that if the nails touch the floor when the dog is standing, they are too long. Trimming on most dogs should be done on average every 4 - 6 weeks. Show and performance dogs require more frequent attention (biweekly at minimum) to keep nails short and smooth.
What is the best age to start?
Any age is better than never! We've had senior dogs come in for the first time to be made more comfortable. But obviously, when you start young it is usually much easier for all concerned. Responsible breeders handle their pups from birth, and begin grooming at mere weeks old. You should continue basic care and regular handling all over your pup's body, including paws, face, ears, and tail, from the day you bring it home. By 4 months is usually an ideal time to bring a puppy in for her first professional groom. At this age they tend to adapt to new things quicker, and with some practice can learn to take all grooming procedures in stride. If nothing else right now, these young pups need their sharp little toenails trimmed! Even just a social visit for some quick handling and table training is a good start. When owners wait until the dog is 6-10 or so months old (during the "teen" phase) it's often more difficult, as the unsocialized pup may find every new experience scary and harder to get over than a youngster. They can learn to accept it, but training often takes longer at this point. Do yourself, your groomer, and your dog a favor, and start him out right from the start.
Policy regarding refusal of services.
For the record, we very rarely turn a dog away. However, if the pet's behavior presents an actual danger to itself or groomer, then it is safer handled at a vet's office where it can be sedated for grooming. We do not condone the grooming of drugged dogs here.
Pets with signs of contagious disease will, of course, be sent home.
As explained above, dogs with fleas or skunk odor may be refused service.
We've yet to turn away a matted dog, but this is not a torture chamber or a band-aid for chronic neglect. Dematting to the point of causing pain will not be performed, nor will quietly shaving a felted coat once a year just because you don't want the vet to see your dog in that condition. We are pleased to give a dog in such need a makeover, but cannot tolerate repeated abuse. Brushing at home is free, and regular grooming is essential for health - please care for your pets properly!
Clients who repeatedly miss appointments or bounce checks will be blacklisted.
Your dog's beauty treatment begins with a hydromassage bath, which deep cleans while offering a soothing massage action. A variety of environmentally friendly shampoos and conditioners are available to match to your dog's particular skin & coat type. After the bath, your pet will be blow dried by hand. Ears will be cleaned, nails trimmed, "sanitary trim" if needed, paws neatened, and hair thoroughly brushed & combed. Styling is done to breed standard or your custom needs.
The amount of time this all takes will of course vary, but on average most pets are done in less than two hours. Each client is given a private appointment, so pets spend less time away from home.
How much will it cost?
This varies widely according to breed, size, coat condition, style, and behavior. Therefore we are unable to give definite quotes until working with the dog. You may however call or email Shampoodles for an estimate.
Note that prices may fluctuate slightly with each visit according to time spent due to coat condition or special services performed. Make sure you know "today's" price before paying!
Multi-pet discounts are not available, as each dog requires the same amount of work as if they were an only child. Owners should only keep as many pets as they can reasonably afford to care for.
What do you charge extra for?
Techniques that require added effort or time, beyond standard grooming, such as special handling or coats in poor condition require a higher fee. This includes dematting, or shaving of severely matted coats, and medicated skin treatment baths. Parasite removal or extreme deodorizing warrant an additional charge. (See details below.) Specialty services such as deshedding, handstripping, or show grooming are offered at an hourly rate. For owners who want extra flair, creative coloring can be done and charged for added time and products. Dye jobs usually must be scheduled ahead of time.
Do you offer day care?
At Shampoodles, we generally serve one client at a time, so each dog can receive individual attention. This also allows for shorter groom times, so your pet doesn't needlessly spend an entire day away from their family. We've found this schedule to be less stressful than traditional grooming shops. If you work during the week, we may be able to accommodate you after hours.
We are not equipped to offer quality day care services here. Please pick your pet up at the given time.
Can I watch you groom my dog?
Most salons don't allow owners to stay, as it is a distraction to both dog and stylist, as well as a potential liability. Dogs usually behave much better when their owners are not present. However, at Shampoodles we understand some owners' desire to remain with their pet, and so in some cases will allow them to stay during grooming if requested, or wait outside/in the car until finished. Sometimes it's simply a matter of time - the dog is finished so quickly it isn't worth driving home just to turn back around for pick up time. In a few instances, difficult behavior or physical limitations warrants the owner's assistance. Of course most dogs are just fine being dropped off for their beauty treatment while their owner runs errands!
Note: If the dog becomes too distracted by the owner's presence, then they may be asked to wait out of sight during grooming, for the safety and sanity of all involved.
Should I shave my dog for the summer?
Not necessarily. There are some concerns with the practice of clipping double coated breeds, along with the danger of sunburn when shaving light-colored or thin-coated dogs too closely. Sunburn is easily avoided by leaving hair at a reasonably protective length and/or using sunblock made for pets or children. As for the clipping of undercoated dogs, the strong possibility of severe coat damage remains. "Northern" breeds are particularly susceptible. (Low-shedding "hair" breeds are rarely affected, so trim freely.) The shorter the clip, the greater the possibility of the coat not growing back properly, or in some cases, at all. The reasons are unknown, though theories abound, but the fact is that it can happen. Some dogs never have this problem, while others still aren't affected until after years of clipping. Of course, it is purely an aesthetic condition, so if after weighing the drawbacks you still prefer your pet in a shorter clip, then by all means go for it. The truth is that many heavily coated dogs are more comfortable in the summer without their excess of fur. So while we generally recommend the more natural alternative of proper coat maintenance plus deshedding, and possibly light trimming, the question to shave or not is entirely an individual choice. We would be happy to consult on your particular needs and breed of dog to help you decide.
What is deshedding?
Your groomer will use a variety of special tools and methods to remove the bulk of your dog's undercoat. This can dramatically reduce shedding, as well as improve skin & coat health. The technique may also be called carding, or "furminating" when using the Furminator tool. Of course nothing can completely stop the natural shedding cycle, and the process should be repeated on a regular schedule to keep loose hair to a minimum.
My dog got sprayed by a skunk! What do I do?
There are several "home remedies" readily available. Our first recommendation is usually to apply a 50/50 solution of vinegar (white or cider) and water to the dry coat. No need to rinse. Most of us have some vinegar in our pantry so it's one of the most convenient remedies, plus it actually has many skin benefiting properties unlike most other products. Your dog might smell a bit like a salad after, but it's safe, easy, and does a decent job of reducing skunk odor. Common sense dictates avoiding eye contact.
An effective, scientifically tested recipe is: 1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup baking soda, 1 tsp liquid dish soap (Dawn, Ivory, etc.) - mix in an open container (e.g. a bucket) and use immediately. Use a sponge to apply to face and avoid eye contact. Let stand at least 10 minutes before rinsing. Minor bleaching may occur.
There are also many commercially available products (with varying effectiveness) for getting out the smell. Keeping some on hand may be a good idea if you have a chronic skunk problem.
Regardless of what remedy you use, the most important thing is applying to a dry coat, and working it thoroughly to the skin. Wetting the coat first seals the cuticle, meaning that stench is now trapped inside the hair, and deodorizing products will be less effective.
Since dogs investigate with their nose, the face is most often hit hardest with skunk spray. Check eyes for redness, and rinse with pure saline solution (not the stuff for contacts - buy plain eye wash).
No remedy will remove 100% of the odor. You'll often find a lingering smell when the pet gets wet, even weeks later. Repeated treatments if necessary and good grooming will minimize this.
Also, don't forget to wash the collar! (Along with anything else the dog touched after being sprayed.)
Prevention is of course the best remedy! If you know the skunks are out, check your yard before letting your pets out. Keep dogs on leash and under control esp. at night, dawn and dusk. Try putting a bell on his/her collar to scare off wild animals. Keep an eye on your dog! Don't leave pet food or loose trash outside, as this calls the stinky critters right to your door!
Will you wash my skunky dog?
We'd rather not! Taking in a skunked dog - even one sprayed a week ago - contaminates the entire salon with the foul smell for days, and it seeps into our home. This is neither healthy nor pleasant for my family or my clients. If presented with this task, you understand the need to charge a deodorizing fee to cover products, additional time bathing, and extra cleaning afterwards.
Remember also that we're not the only ones that will suffer from skunk odor contamination... Your car will likely reek of it from the ride over! The "ideal" approach is to follow one of the home remedies listed above, then bring your dog in for a more thorough bath to zap away the rest of the odor. Yes, a deodorizing fee still applies.
Can you give my dog a flea bath?
Fleas can be sneaky, so I always keep an effective natural shampoo and area spray on hand for unforeseen circumstances. However, it has never been our policy to accept dogs infested with fleas. Treatment for any number fleas will result in an immediate upcharge. Similar to the issues with skunk odor (but more dangerous) stray fleas can get into our house, on my own dog (who is highly allergic!) or other clients. This is not acceptable. If you call for a flea bath - or show up with the buggers - you may be turned away. We recommend that you first get the parasites under control with a treatment from your vet (note: name brand products are far safer than generics) and don't forget to treat your house! Fleas actually spend the majority of their lives off your pet's body. This means they are residing in your home and possibly yard. Clean like a maniac, I say. Wash everything you can in hot water, vacuum daily, pay attention to baseboard cracks, spaces under furniture, the furniture itself, etc. Use a non-toxic insecticidal spray or powder if necessary. Look into natural remedies such as diatomaceous earth. Carpeting is the enemy - treat those areas seriously, or better yet, rip it out if you can. Pay attention to your pet's environment - if you are using preventative treatments and he is still getting fleas, they are coming from somewhere!
On a related subject, ticks are a normal problem in our area. Any that are found on your dog will be removed; this service is complimentary in normal cases. If an excessive number are found, then a small fee may be added for extra time spent.
How often should my dog be groomed?
This will vary according to breed and amount of proper brushing given between grooms. Six weeks is usually a pretty good schedule for any dog. Of course, some dogs can go longer, while others need more frequent attention. We do feel that all dogs should be bathed at least seasonally - just think how much environmental toxins (along with dirt, dander, and who knows what else) the hair accumulates in three months! Now obviously, if you have a breed that requires styling, this is far too long to wait, and even the majority of "wash & wear" dogs need a bath long before then. But it is good to set minimums, as unfortunately many people still do the once a year thing, which is rarely adequate for any breed. If you have a longhaired dog in a full style, 4 - 5 weeks is often the best interval for professional grooming, while 6 - 8 weeks is usually sufficient for short clips or deshedding treatments. In some cases, maintenance baths approximately every 10 days may be recommended for certain skin conditions, or every 2 - 3 weeks for show dogs, or full coated breeds given minimal at-home brushing.
Nail care is an often overlooked service. Very few dogs wear their nails down naturally to an ideal length. Overgrown nails can contribute to discomfort, joint problems, and even infections. A rule of thumb is that if the nails touch the floor when the dog is standing, they are too long. Trimming on most dogs should be done on average every 4 - 6 weeks. Show and performance dogs require more frequent attention (biweekly at minimum) to keep nails short and smooth.
What is the best age to start?
Any age is better than never! We've had senior dogs come in for the first time to be made more comfortable. But obviously, when you start young it is usually much easier for all concerned. Responsible breeders handle their pups from birth, and begin grooming at mere weeks old. You should continue basic care and regular handling all over your pup's body, including paws, face, ears, and tail, from the day you bring it home. By 4 months is usually an ideal time to bring a puppy in for her first professional groom. At this age they tend to adapt to new things quicker, and with some practice can learn to take all grooming procedures in stride. If nothing else right now, these young pups need their sharp little toenails trimmed! Even just a social visit for some quick handling and table training is a good start. When owners wait until the dog is 6-10 or so months old (during the "teen" phase) it's often more difficult, as the unsocialized pup may find every new experience scary and harder to get over than a youngster. They can learn to accept it, but training often takes longer at this point. Do yourself, your groomer, and your dog a favor, and start him out right from the start.
Policy regarding refusal of services.
For the record, we very rarely turn a dog away. However, if the pet's behavior presents an actual danger to itself or groomer, then it is safer handled at a vet's office where it can be sedated for grooming. We do not condone the grooming of drugged dogs here.
Pets with signs of contagious disease will, of course, be sent home.
As explained above, dogs with fleas or skunk odor may be refused service.
We've yet to turn away a matted dog, but this is not a torture chamber or a band-aid for chronic neglect. Dematting to the point of causing pain will not be performed, nor will quietly shaving a felted coat once a year just because you don't want the vet to see your dog in that condition. We are pleased to give a dog in such need a makeover, but cannot tolerate repeated abuse. Brushing at home is free, and regular grooming is essential for health - please care for your pets properly!
Clients who repeatedly miss appointments or bounce checks will be blacklisted.
